The Poqueira Gorge
In this issue we feature the villages of Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. |
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These villages clinging to the side of the deep Barranco del Poqueira ravine 14 km to 20 km northeast of Orgiva, are among the prettiest most dramatic sites of La Alpujarra. Their whitewash stone houses seem to clamber over each other in an effort not to slide down into the gorge!. The vegetation is lush and abundant with different colours and a raging river the Poqueira in the background. Pampaneira is the lowest of the three, at just over 1,000m above sea level.
Pampaneira has a picturesque charm, cobbled streets, narrow passageways, numerous fountains, dead ends, propontories and terraces. The pampaneira flower pots or "tinaos" are very impressive in there profusion of flowers. It has an interesting 16th century Baroque parish church and is on the historical villages list. There are many shops selling pottery, clothes and other examples of Alpujarrian craft. It can be very busy in high season as there are many tourist coaches and parking can be a problem.
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2 km outside Pampaneira you come to a fork in the road, to the left the road leads to Bubión. The architectural style of the houses is similar to those of the Atlas mountains in Morocco - cubed shaped and close together. You will find a 16th century parish church next to the remains of a Nazri Arab fortified tower together with are numerous bars, restaurants and workshops producing Alpujarrian craftsmanship and metalwork.
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Capileira less than 1 km above Bubión is a lovely village at the end of the road that crosses the Sierra Nevada overlooking the whole valley and offering stunning views overlooking the whole valley. This is another popular villages for tourists, provides an ideal walking base and is also on the historical villages list. Also, from Capileira, an asphalt road continues for three kilometres to the snow line at 1,800 metres. A rough track, suitable only for 4-wheel drive vehicles, leads over the mountains to the Sierra Nevada ski resort 30 kilometres away and on to Granada.
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The mountain air is the cleanest in Europe and due to the altitude and the heat in midsummer isn't as overbearing as it can be in the rest of Spain, which is good news for walkers. The views don't cost a penny, as a result there are many places to stay and plenty of bars and restaurants.
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There are all sorts of walks from here, with something to suit all. Capileira is also the place you get the bus which takes you into the Sierra Nevada National Park.
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A few miles up the mountain from the famous white villages of Bubion, Capileira and Pampaneira, is the O Sel Ling Buddhist centre which has a stupa and temple, and was opened by the Dalai Lama in 1982. The name means 'place of clear light'. It is possible to arrange visits here. See www.oseling.com for more information.
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